Light can make or break a portrait. Get it right, and your subject looks confident, comfortable and full of life. Get it wrong, and even the most relaxed person can appear tired, flat or tense.
As a professional photographer working across Cranleigh and the Surrey Hills, I often get asked: “What’s the secret to a flattering portrait?” The answer nearly always starts with light.
Lighting is the most powerful tool in portrait photography. It shapes faces, sets the mood and brings attention to the parts of the image that matter most.
And the good news is, once you understand a few basic techniques, you can use them in all sorts of settings, whether you’re indoors or out, using natural light or studio kit.
Let’s look at a few simple lighting techniques that make a big difference to how people look in photos.
Use soft light to flatter the face
Harsh light creates strong shadows and highlights that can make people look older or more tired than they really are. Soft light, on the other hand, wraps gently around the face.
It reduces harsh lines and creates a smoother, more flattering look. This is why photographers often shoot during the golden hour — the hour after sunrise or before sunset — when the light is warm and soft.
Indoors, soft light can be created using a large window with sheer curtains or a diffuser. You can also bounce light off a white wall or ceiling.
In a studio, softboxes and umbrellas are tools that help produce this kind of soft, even light.
Find the right angle for the light
The direction of the light makes a big difference to the mood of the portrait.
Light from straight in front can sometimes look flat, but if you bring it slightly to the side, it adds gentle shadows that give the face more shape. This is often called “loop lighting”, where a small shadow falls under and to the side of the nose.
A little more angle gives you “Rembrandt lighting”, named after the painter who often used it in his portraits. It’s a classic look, with one side of the face in light and a triangle of light on the cheek on the shadowed side. It creates depth and drama without being too harsh.
If the light is too far to the side, though, one half of the face can end up in deep shadow. That’s fine for dramatic portraits, but if you want a friendly, approachable look, a softer angle usually works best.
Use reflectors to lift the shadows
Even when the main light is coming from the side, you can use something as simple as a white card or reflector on the other side of the face to bounce a bit of light back in. This helps lift the shadows just enough to keep detail, while still keeping that natural depth.
In outdoor settings, a piece of white foam board or a silver reflector does the job well.
If you’re taking portraits near a white wall or pale surface, that can often act as a natural reflector too, so pay attention to your surroundings.
Watch the catchlights in the eyes
A tiny detail that makes a big difference is the catchlight — the little sparkle of light reflected in the subject’s eyes. Catchlights add life to the portrait. Without them, eyes can look dull or lifeless.
You can often see catchlights when using a softbox, window or other large light source. Just make sure the light is placed where it reflects in the eye, usually at about a 10 or 2 o’clock position relative to the camera.
Pay attention to the background light
It’s easy to focus so much on lighting the person that the background gets forgotten. But uneven or poorly lit backgrounds can distract from the portrait.
Try to control how much light hits the background — you can light it on purpose, or let it fall into shadow, depending on the look you’re going for.
In outdoor portraits, look for open shade, like under a tree or next to a building. This gives soft light without the harsh shadows caused by direct sun. Be careful of dappled light, though — sunlight filtered through leaves can create bright spots that fall across the face or background and become distracting.
Don’t forget expression and comfort
Lighting is vital, but it only works when the person in front of the camera feels at ease. Part of using lighting well is setting it up in a way that doesn’t feel intimidating.
Big lights and lots of gear can be off-putting if you’re not used to it, so I always try to keep things simple and make the experience relaxed.
When people feel comfortable and confident, the light works with them. Their natural expression shines through, and that’s when the best portraits happen.
In summary
Flattering portrait lighting doesn’t have to be complicated.
Use soft, directional light to shape the face. Add gentle fill with a reflector. Look for catchlights and think about your background. Most of all, help the person feel relaxed in front of the camera — because no amount of lighting can fake a real, warm expression.
If you’d like portraits that show you at your best, whether for your business, personal brand or a family milestone, I’d love to help.
Get in touch to book a relaxed portrait session here in Cranleigh or across the Surrey Hills. Let’s make sure the light is working for you.
